Friday, May 19, 2006

Sight-seeing on Czech knees

The hostel had a better map for free than the one I had bought at the train station and it was more compact. On it was advertising for guided walking tours so I read through them all. I notice a 6 hour one starting in just 15 minutes so I quickly unloaded my heavier stuff, repacked in the smaller bag and ran to catch the beginning of the tour. They were just starting at the astronomical clock when I got there. The cost would be 1000 crowns, or about 40 dollars, when they got to the tour boat. Its a good thing because I saved 40 dollars when I realized how lame the tour was after just a few minutes of following the guide around. I was much better off on my own with the book and moving at my own pace. I get very impatient on guided tours. This whole trip Ive been moving at top speed through the sites, skipping anything that seemed like it would not be efficient and packed with value. Ive been extremely frugal with my money as well, except when it comes to food and drink. So far Ive gotten by pretty cheaply too, subsidizing my meals with staples like bread, cheese, fruit, sausage, and water bought from the grocery stores.

The first Americans I met were a Texan couple in their 50s. Apparently they go on a European tour every year, but the guy couldnt stop complaining about things. He didnt seem like he was enjoying himself. He complained about the roads and how hard it was to drive in Eastern Europe, and kept trying to explain to me the best places to rent a car and where to park etc etc, and his wife kept reminding him that I was relying on public transportation for the whole trip. That never seemed to sink in on him. I just nodded and smiled and politely took my leave at a break in his diatribe. I felt sorry for his wife. Maybe if I came here every year Id get grouchy, but I sure hope not.

So far the weather has been alternating between being sunny and warm, to grey and windy, to lightly raining, and even the infrequent downpour. I havent minded the changes, although I end up spending a lot of time packing and unpacking my jacket. At one point I got caught out in a hard rain and got soaked as I ran back to the hostel. At least I dont have to worry about washing these jeans for another couple days.

I keep running into people who have the same guidebook as me. Its an instant and fun way to connect with people. Not surprisingly we end up at the same hostels, restaurants, out of the way sights, and such all listed in the book. It would be fun to check when I get home to see if there is a forum or website where I could try to catch up with some of them and hear how the rest of their trips went. I do love this book, but I have some complaints about it as well. I will be tempted to write a review once I get back.

Thursday I spent all day wandering Old Town, the Jewish Quarter, and New Town. I saw Charles Bridge but saved Little Quarter and the Castle Quarter for Friday. Even after seeing all the major sites on the East side of the Charles Bridge, I still had time to wander back and forth to the train station multiple times. Each time I would forget to do something and have to head back later. After picking up schedules for the trains to Vienna and Cesky Krumlov I decided not to cram in a side trip to Krumlov and bought my ticket to Vienna. I carefully selected a time that I thought would be best to leave Prague before buying the ticket and was surprised to learn that it is good for anytime in the next month. That would have saved me a lot of time and stress if Id known that before hand. I guess since its not an overnight sleeper I dont have to reserve a seat. Good to know, now when I get to Vienna I can buy my ticket to Budapest without stressing out about it. I also decided to skip Bratislava, both Rick Steves and the curmudgeon Texan said my time is better spent in Prague, Vienna, and Budapest.

Thursday night I went out for a late night walk and got myself nice and lost for awhile. I wasnt too stressed about it and had a decent map with me. Ive learned I can always follow the tram lines in the road until I find something that I recognize. Also Ive learned to watch the locals and imitate them when Im not sure what Im doing. That little trick has come in very handy.

Friday I woke up with ants in my bed. Not a pleasant experience. Ill try one of the top bunks tonight. The breakfast was uninspiring so I picked up some supplies at the grocery store and had an impromtu breakfast near the Charles Bridge. I leisurely strolled across the bridge and took a short tour of Kampa Island on the other side. Then I walked through Little Quarter square and up the long steps to the castle. I seemed to be walking against the crowd most of the way and doing the standard tour backwards. I liked being different and a source of irritation to the hordes of tourists trying to walk in the other direction. I felt like was paddling upstream in the center of a river of people. The castle was interesting but I didnt bother buying tickets to the museums and sites, I felt they were overpriced and overcrowded. I was mostly interested in the Gothic and Neo-Gothic monstrosity that is the St. Vitus Cathedral. I loved it. Its construction spans 600 years, hence the mix of architectural styles. I was appalled by the gargantuan queue waiting to get inside the cathedral at 10:00 so I begrudgingly passed up the opportunity to see the inside. I will try again earlier tomorrow morning.

After leaving the castle I wandered down to the Monastery and had lunch at the old brewery. I ate a light lunch of soup, cheese toast, and two kinds of beer. By the time I wandered over to see the library at the monastery it was closed for an hour. Something else I need to do tomorrow. Next I hiked through the park to Petrin Tower for an excellent view of the city. Downstairs was an exibit dedicated to the greatest mind and inventor who never existed, Jara Cimrman. It was a very funny display. I hiked down the side of Petrin Hill and then back to Old Town in search of an internet cafe and some coffee. Along the way I spotted the Black Light Theater, which I am planning on going to tonight to watch Aspects of Alice. It should be interesting.
Thats all Ive got so far. I still havent found a place I can upload my pictures from. Ive got a ton, hopefully I dont run out of room anytime soon.

Until next time, Ciao.

No comments: